Black Axe Mangal is a phenomenon — but emphatically not an outcome of someone noticing that za’atar is now sold in Waitrose.

Advertising itself as an avant-garde kebab house drawing influences from around the world, not just from Turkey. But while the chargrilled meat dishes take centre stage on Black Axe’s ever-changing menu, the skill of the kitchen expresses itself in ways not confined to the meaty arts.